The Literature of Textile Utilization and Evaluation - ACS Publications

16 The Literature of Textile Utilization and

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Evaluation LYMAN

FOURT

Harris Research Laboratories Division, Gillette Research Institute, Rockville, M d . 20850

This guide

describes

references

stract series; trends in textile distribution

and examples

consumption evaluation comfort suitability

in the areas of general

utilization,

of surveys

if price or properties of

physical

or of physical for

use

as

serviceability; properties

including

of possible

change and related

ab-

end

use

changes

in certain

in

ways;

evaluations to

comfort

of and

clothing.

S

ince the uses of textiles seldom depend directly on their chemical properties or involve their chemistry, most of the literature on uses and evaluation for use falls outside the chemical literature and outside the fields of Chemical Abstracts. T w o abstract series useful for the nonchemical literature of textiles are Textile Technology Digest and the Abstracts section of Journal of the Textile Institute. The governing factors i n the uses of textiles are mechanical and structural properties, durability, requirements for care during use, cost and the decorative or fashion possibilities. I n the industrial uses of textiles rather definite engineering requirements can be set. In the household or clothing realms, however, we are much more influenced by the aesthetic or historical aspects of use. In a l l fields we are i n the midst of not only the normal changes of taste or fashion, and economic competition, but also a more deeply seated set of changes arising from the availability of new fibers and of new understanding of the basis for both traditional and new uses of fibers. In surveying the literature of textile utilization and evaluation we shall first look at general trends: economic statistics and prices, and indicators of current trends; then at evaluation of physical serviceability, the classic field of textile testing and specifications. T h e n we shall look at the m u c h less precise field of assessment of "comfort," and the more scientific measurement of performance of the man-clothing system i n extremes of environment. 287 Smith; Literature of Chemical Technology Advances in Chemistry; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1968.

288

LITERATURE


General Trends of Textile

OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY

Utilization

The one best source of statistics on the production of different fibers, i n different countries, and the utilization of fibers i n various end uses, is the Textile Organon. This monthly publication i n the course of the year makes a very complete survey and presents the current information i n comparison w i t h the trends shown i n previous years. The U n i t e d States Government and U n i t e d Nations statistical services covering wider fields but including various parts of the textile field are listed in the Bibliography. Current information on fiber prices is available for manmade fibers i n Modern Textiles Magazine and Wool Record and Textile World. Trade trends for wool are also covered i n World Wool Digest. Utilization of fibers i n 101 relatively specific end use categories is reviewed annually i n Textile Organon. Consumption of cotton, i n relation to all fibers, i n 110 end use categories, many of which are further subdivided, is published annually as "Cotton Counts Its Customers" by the Utilization Research Division of the National Cotton C o u n c i l of America. If one is concerned with the economic worth of a possible new development, for example, of a new finish, or the improvement of a fiber or type of yarn, it is valuable to form an idea of the possible market before deciding to undertake the expensive steps of commercial scale development and promotion. Surveys for this purpose must be tailored to particular situations, but published models w h i c h w i l l repay study are the "Cotton Quality Studies," prepared by the staff members of the National Cotton C o u n c i l of America and published i n the Textile Research Journal. These studies attempt to pick out the particular end uses i n w h i c h a change of characteristics is desired, and to estimate the effect of varied levels of increased cost. Evaluation

for Physical

Serviceability

Test Methods. The physical description of fabric construction and the testing of physical properties, w h i c h are the foundations of estimates of serviceability, are kept up to date for this country by the annual compilation of " A S T M Standards on Textile Materials" and the "Technical M a n u a l of A A T C C . " These compilations, plus the federal specification "Textile Test Methods," constitute the major sources of information on test methods approved by responsible large scale technical groups i n the U . S. However, these methods do not give the background of their development and interpretation. The best source for that is active participation i n the committees of the technical societies. Papers published i n American Dyestuff Reporter for the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists ( A A T C C ) , or i n Materials Research and Standards for the American Society for Testing and M a terials ( A S T M ) , or i n Textile Research Journal are sometimes sources for the " w h y " behind methods. The tentative Textile Standards published from time to time i n the Journal of the Textile Institute are usually accompanied by a critical article. Textile standards which have been reviewed and adopted are available from the British Standards Institution i n "Methods of Test for Textiles." General discussions of textile testing are given by Skinkle's book and

Smith; Literature of Chemical Technology Advances in Chemistry; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1968.

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Garner's manual. Other countries also have national standards groups, and there is an International Standards Organization (ISO) for w h i c h the A m e r i can Standards Association ( A S A ) is the U . S . representative. Specifications and Levels of Performance. Textile test methods w h i c h are "American Standard" originate w i t h the A A T C C or A S T M , but the A m e r i can Standards Association goes further i n adopting levels of test performance as w e l l as test methods. The A S A has published " A m e r i c a n Standard M i n i m u m Requirements for Textile Fabrics, L 2 2 , " sponsored by the National R e tail Merchants Association and "American Standard M i n i m u m Performance Requirements for Institutional Textiles, L 2 4 , " sponsored by the American Hotel Association. There are also "Proposed Voluntary E n d - U s e Serviceability Standards," of the Textile Distributors Institute. These specifications cover fabrics for large blocks of end usage. Government specifications cover particular fabrics and particular end use items, i n varying degrees of generality. F i n d i n g the government specification i n a particular area requires searching both the general civilian purpose Federal Specifications and the military specifications. A useful start is through " U . S . Government Specifications D i rectory," published by the Small Business Administration. "Summary of Specification Requirements for Military Fabrics," Textile Series Report N o . 102 is a concise and often sufficiently complete guide i n the military fabric area. O n l y a fraction of the textile goods bought or sold each year w o u l d meet the requirements of any of these specifications. The general problem of acceptability for consumer use is regulated by market forces of price, promotion, and consumer experience. A t least two publications attempt to assess serviceability and value i n the general market. In the U . S., Consumer Reports, and i n E n g l a n d , Which, attempt to indicate quality levels. More valuable than the particular product recommendations, i n many cases, are the discussions of the differences between classes of goods offered for the same use, w h i c h can guide selection on a basis of structure or function rather than price. The analysis of fabric defects, as recognized i n manufacturing, is partly covered i n Goldberg's book, " F a b r i c Defects." The meeting programs and publications of the American Society for Quality Control and its textile and apparel section cover a very wide range, usually from the producer or large scale purchaser's point of view. Other sources of comparative studies or guides to serviceability are contained i n publications of the U . S. Department of Agriculture and Department of Commerce. Currently available titles under "Consumers" and "Textiles" are listed i n " H o m e Economics," Price List 11, and "Commerce," Price List 62, available from the Government Printing Office. A n annual compilation "Titles of Completed Theses i n Home Economics . . ." is available from the Agricultural Research Service, U . S. Department of Agriculture. [ F o r 1964 and 1965, the thesis compilation is available from the American H o m e E c o nomics Association, 1600 Twentieth St., N . W . , Washington, D . C . 20009.] In the military field, two series of publications should be noted. One is the annual "Bibliography of Publications and Technical Papers" of the Quartermaster Research and Engineering Center at Natick, Mass. The other is the


290

LITERATURE OF CHEMICAL

TECHNOLOGY


Textile Series Reports, of w h i c h the most recent is N o . 125. The first 104 titles are listed i n a bibliography available from the Clearinghouse for Federal Scientific and Technical Information. The latest number, however, is 125 and current information should be secured from the U . S. A r m y Laboratory, Natick, Mass. T w o other bibliographies that cover related areas are "Textile Fabrics and Related Research" and "Textile Fibers," also available from the Clearinghouse. It is worth noting that the same material is i n many cases available as journal articles or books, w h i c h can be located by search under the names of the authors. In addition, various trade associations have standards and specification programs. One of general interest i n the washability certification program of the American L a u n d r y Association. A directory of trade associations is available i n libraries as "Directory of National Associations of Business M e n , 1961," compiled by the Business and Defense Services Administration, Department of Commerce. Evaluation

for

Comfort

Definition of Comfort. One of the chief subjects of discussion about natural fibers and the fabrics made from them, and fabrics made from the newer fibers, is comfort. T h e outcome has been a realization that comfort is more difficult to define than might be thought, and one needs an improved understanding, if not of comfort itself, of how fibers work together to give the characteristics of the fabric as a whole. Studies of heating and air conditioning, and of physiology, have combined to recognize comfort, i n terms of room conditions, as a statistical concept, as summarized i n the trade publication " H e a t i n g , Ventilating, Air-Conditioning G u i d e . " Similarly i n terms of measurements of the human body, such studies suggest as a base line the range of conditions i n w h i c h heat balance is maintained by regulation of the circulation, without progressive cooling of the body and without increase of the body temperature or sweating. This is a rather narrow concept of comfort, directed mostly toward conditions of rest or light activity and does not take account of the wide capacity of the body to endure cold or hot conditions or adjust to the requirement of work. Because the ranges of comfort are difficult to define or measure, much of the comparative work on clothing has endeavored to measure the difference due to clothing under conditions of cold, heat, or exercise. The leading work i n comparing different types of fibers with comfort is that of Wetmore and co-workers ( J , 10) and Galbraith and co-workers (9, 17). A l l agree on the difficulties of finding objective measurements of the thermal aspects of comfort i n relation to fiber composition of fabrics. A great deal of work has been done by physiologists on methods of measuring stress i n man and on application of such measurements to the combined influence of extreme environments and various forms of clothing. A good foundation i n this area is given i n the book "Physiology of Heat Regulation." The continuation to the present can be traced i n the bibliographies on Aviation Medicine or Aerospace Medicine from 1952 onward, edited by A . J . Jacobius



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of the L i b r a r y of Congress. These annotated bibliographies have been issued through 1963 and continued w i t h the "continuing" bibliography series starting i n 1964. Current physiological studies on clothing can be found i n the abstracts of current literature i n Aerospace Medicine and i n Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports. [ A more specialized listing of annotated references, "Aerospace Medicine and Biology," is published as N A S A SP-7011. It has a continuing bibliography w h i c h includes clothing and protective clothing.] I n addition to the relatively concentrated coverage of clothing studies i n the monthly Aerospace Medicine, which is not limited to space suits, the Index Medicus is a guide to the whole area of medical and physiological literature i n relation to clothing. A n effort to use subjective ratings of comfort to identify other factors than thermal effects has been reported by Mehrtens and McAlister ( 1 3 ) . Physical Studies Related to Fabric Comfort. In addition to whole man studies, isolated segments of the physical relations of fabric properties to comfort have been studied. Thermal transmission properties of fabrics are rather easily measured by various methods w h i c h have been reviewed b y Morris ( 1 5 ) , but are probably dwarfed i n practical significance by questions of amount of air enclosed i n garments, and the movement of this air w i t h activity of the person, studied by Belding ( 3 ) , or by the influence of w i n d w h i c h has been studied b y N i v e n and others (16). T h e surface character of fabrics, from the smoothness of filament fabrics to the hairiness of wool, and the degree of regularity of structure i n the yarns, have been recognized by Hollies and others (4, 5, 11). T h e effect of fabric on moisture transfer and the combined flow of heat and water vapor through clothing are also factors i n the physics of comfort (8, 18, 19). One of the long-neglected areas related to comfort and to the "looks" or aesthetic acceptability of fabrics is the question of flexibility or stiffness, not only for bending, but also for drape and for shear within the plane of the fabric. C h u and others (6) have made advances i n the study of drape, and L i n d b e r g h , Behre, and others i n Sweden (2, 7, 12, 14) have advanced our understanding of compression and shear within the plane of the fabric. It is likely that these more subtle properties of the fabric are the main components of our ideas of acceptability and comfort, rather than thermal relations. Information

Access and

Retrieval

Since the preparation of this paper, two groups have been developing advanced information retrieval services, each based on a controlled vocabulary "thesaurus" and computerized information storage and retrieval. F o r the current state of development, inquire of: (1) Massachusetts Institute of T e c h nology, Cambridge, Mass. 02139 (Prof. Stanley B a c k e r ) ; (2) Textile Information Center, Institute of Textile Technology, Charlottesville, V a . 22902 (Robert S. M e r k e l ) . Literature

Cited

(1) Andreen, J. H., et al., "Fabric Evaluations Based on Physiological Measurements of Comfort," Textile Research Journal 23, 11-23 (1953).



292

LITERATURE


(2) Behre, B., "Mechanical Properties of Textile Fabrics: I. Shearing," Textile Research Journal 31, 87-93 (1961). (3) Belding, H. S., et al., "Analysis of Factors Concerned in Maintaining Energy Balance for Dressed Men in Extreme Cold," American Journal of Physiology 149, 223-239 (1947). (4) Bogaty, H., et al., "Some Thermal Properties of Fabrics: I. The Effect of Fiber Arrangement," Textile Research Journal 27, 445-449 (1957). (5) Bogaty, H., et al., "The Nature of a Fabric Surface: Thickness-Pressure Relationships," Textile Research Journal 23, 108-114 (1953). (6) Chu, C. C., et al., "Mechanics of Elastic Performance of Textile Materials: V. A Study of the Factors Affecting the Drape of Fabrics—the Development of a Drape Meter," Textile Research Journal 20, 539-548 (1950). (7) Dahlberg, B., "Mechanical Properties of Textile Fabrics: II. Buckling," Textile Research Journal 31, 94-99 (1961). (8) Fourt, L., and Harris, M., "Diffusion of Water Vapor through Textiles," Textile Research Journal 17, 256-263 (1947). (9) Galbraith, R. L., et al., "Comfort of Subjects Clothed in Cotton, Water Repellent Cotton and Orion Suits," Textile Research Journal 32, 236-242 (1962). (10) Hardy, H. B., et al., "The Prediction of Equilibrium Thermal Comfort from Physical Data on Fabrics," Textile Research Journal 23, 1-10 ( 1953 ). (11) Hollies, et al., "The Nature of a Fabric Surface: Evaluation by a Rate-ofCooling Method," Textile Research Journal 23, 763-769 (1953). (12) Lindbergh, J., et al., "Mechanical Properties of Textile Fabrics: III. Shearing and Buckling of Various Commercial Fabrics," Textile Research Journal 31, 99-122 (1961). (13) Mehrtens, D. G., McAlister, K. C., "Fiber Properties Responsible for Garment Comfort," Textile Research Journal 32, 658-665 (1962). (14) Morner, B., and Eeg-Olofsson, T., "Measurement of the Shearing Properties of Fabrics," Textile Research Journal 27, 611-615 (1957). (15) Morris, G. J., "Thermal Properties of Textile Materials," Journal of the Textile Institute 44 T, 449-476 (1953). (16) Niven, C. D., "The Heat Transmission of Fabrics in Wind," Textile Research Journal, Part I: 27, 808-11 (1957); Part II: 29, 826-33 (1959). (17) Werden, J. E., et al., "Thermal Comfort of Clothing of Varying Fiber Content," Textile Research Journal 29, 640-51 (1959). (18) Whelan, M . E., et al., "The Diffusion of Water Vapor through Laminae with Particular Reference to Textile Fabrics," Textile Research Journal 25, 197-223 & 737 (1955); 27, 418 (1957). (19) Woodstock, A. H., "Moisture Transfer in Textile Systems," Textile Research Journal 32, 628-33; 719-23 (1962).

BIBLIOGRAPHY Books Bradley, C. G., "Western World Costume, A n Outline History," Appleton-CenturyCrofts, Inc., New York, 1954. Cunnington, C. W., et al, " A Dictionary of English Costume," Dufour Editions, Philadelphia, 1960. Davenport, M . , "The Book of Costume," Crown Publishers, Inc., New York, 1948. Evans, Mary, "Costume Throughout the Ages," J . B. Lippincott, Co., Philadelphia, 1950. Garner, W., "Textile Laboratory Manual," American Elsevier Publishing Co., New York, 1966-67, 6 vols. Goldberg, J . B., "Fabric Defects," McGraw-Hill Book Co., Inc., New York, 1950. Hansen, H . H . , "Costumes and Styles," E . P. Dutton & Co., New York. 1956. Newburgh, L . H . , ed., "Physiology of Heat Regulation," W . B. Saunders Co., Philadelphia, 1949.


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Skinkle, J . H . , "Textile Testing," (2nd ed.), Chemical Publishing Co., New York, 1949. Wilcox, R. Turner, "The Mode in Costume," Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, 1948. Wilcox, R. Turner, "The Mode in Hats and Headdress," Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, 1952.


Abstracts and Information

Services

Aerospace Medicine (formerly Journal of Aviation Medicine), Aerospace Medical Association, Washington National Airport, Washington, D. C. 20001 (contains "Abstracts of Current Literature"), monthly. Chemical Abstracts, American Chemical Society, 1155 Sixteenth St., N . W., Washing ton, D . C. 20036, weekly. Year 1912 1961 1962 1963 1967

Section 25. Dyes & Textile Chemistry 25. Dyes & Textiles 48. Textiles 47. Textiles 39. Textiles

"Historical Statistics of the United States, Colonial Times to 1957," U . S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census, Washington, D. C. 20233, 1960. Index Medicus, National Library of Medicine, Public Health Service, U . S. Depart ment of Health, Education and Welfare, Superintendent of Documents, U . S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. 20402, monthly. Journal of the Textile Institute, Abstracts Section, The Textile Institute, 10 Blackfriars St., Manchester 3, England, monthly. Monthly Bulletin of Statistics, United Nations Statistical Office, Sales and Circulation Section, United Nations, New York (text in English and French), monthly. Statistical Abstracts of the U. S., U . S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census, Washington, D . C , 20233, annual. "Statistical Yearbook," United Nations Statistical Office, Department of Economics and Social Affairs, New York. Textile Technology Digest, Library, Institute of Textile Technology, Charlottesville, Va., monthly. Journals and Trade

Publications

American Dyestuff Reporter, Howes Publishing Co., Inc., 44 East 23rd St., New York, 10001, biweekly. Consumer Reports, Consumers Union of the United States, Inc., 256 Washington St., Mount Vernon, Ν. Y., monthly. "Cotton Counts its Customers," National Cotton Council of America, Memphis, Tenn., ( annual through recent years ), 1962. "Heating, Ventilating, Air-Conditioning Guide," American Society of Heating and Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc., 62 Worth St., New York 10013, annual. Industrial Quality Control, Journal of the American Society for Quality Control, 161 West Wisconsin Ave., Milwaukee, Wis. 53203, monthly. Journal of the Textile Institute, The Textile Institute, 10 Blackfriars St., Manchester 3, England, monthly. Materials Research and Standards (formerly American Society for Testing Materials Bulletin), American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race St., Phila delphia, Pa. 19103, quarterly. Modern Textiles Magazine (formerly Rayon and Synthetic Textiles), Rayon Publish ing Corp., 303 Fifth Ave., New York 10016, monthly. Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports, National Aeronautics and Space Adminis tration, Office of Scientific and Technical Information, 1512 H St., N . W., Washington, D. C. 20546, semimonthly.


294

LITERATURE



Textile Organon, Textile Economics Bureau, Inc., 10 East 40th St., New York 10016, monthly. Textile Research Journal, The Textile Research Institute, Box 625, Princeton, N . J . , monthly. Which, Consumers Association, L t d . , 333 High Holborn, London W C 1 , England, monthly. Wool Record 6- Textile World, Thomas Skinner & Co., 91 Kirkgate, Bradford 1, Yorkshire, England, weekly. World Wool Digest, International Wool Secretariat, London, and the Wool Bureau, Inc., New York, 360 Lexington Ave., New York, biweekly. Standards

and

Specifications

"American Standard Minimum Performance Requirements for Institutional Textiles, L 24," American Standards Association, 70 East 45th St., New York 10017, 1955. "American Standard Minimum Requirements for Textile Fabrics, L 22," American Standards Association, New York, 1960. " A S T M Standards on Textile Materials," American Society for Testing and Materials, Philadelphia, annual. "Commerce," Price List 62, Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D . C. 20402, 1962. "Home Economics," Price List 11, Superintendent of Documents, 1962. 2 Park St., London, 1956. "Methods of Test for Textiles," Handbook No. 11, British Standards Institution, 2 Park St., London (1956). "Proposed Voluntary End-Use Serviceability Standards," Textile Distributors Institute, Inc., 469 Seventh Ave., New York, 1956. "Summary of Specification Requirements for Military Fabrics," Quartermaster Research and Engineering Center, Textile Series Report No. 102, Natick, Mass., 1957 "Technical Manual of A A T C C , " American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P. O. Box 886, Durham, N . C , annual. "Textile Test Methods," Federal Supply Service, General Services Administration, Federal Specification C C C - T - 1 9 1 b , Superintendent of Documents, ton, D . C. " U . S. Government Specifications Directory," Small Business Administration, 811 Vermont Ave., N . W., Washington, D . C. 20005, 1954. Bibliographies Selective Bibliographies available from: U . S. Department of Commerce, Clearinghouse for Federal Scientific and Technical Information, 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield, Va. 22151: "Aviation Medicine—An Annotated Bibliography," V o l . I, 1952, P B 121,543 "Aerospace Medicine and Biology—An Annotated Bibliography" Vol. I l l , 1954, P B 171,029 Vol. I V , 1955, A D 258,191 Vol. V , 1956, A D 274,064 Vol. V I , 1957, A D 402,638 Vol. V I I - X , 1958 (in 2 parts): Part 1, N66 27624; Part 2, N66 27625 Vol. X I , 1962-63, N65 21424 "Aerospace Medicine and Biology—A Continuing Bibliography," Jan .-Oct. 1964, issued every 3 months; from October to the present, issued monthly. A l l issues from 1964 through 1967 are available in a package for $50.00. "Textile Fabrics and Related Research." Sept. 1961. 401 refs. SB-481 "Textile Fibers," Sept. 1961. 347 refs. SB-480 "Textile Series Reports," Quartermaster Corps. Nov. 1960, 104 refs. SB-440 Other Bibliographies: "Aviation Medicine—An Annotated Bibliography," V o l . II, 1953, Aero Medical Association, Bruce Publishing Co., 2642 University Ave., St. Paul, Minn. 55114. "Bibliography of Publications and Technical Reports for 1962," Quartermaster Research and Engineering Center, Natick, Mass, annual. "Titles of Completed Theses in Home Economics and Related Fields in Colleges and Universities of the U . S., 1961-62," U . S. Department of Agriculture, P A 543 (1963), Agricultural Research Service, Washington, D . C.


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U.S. Patent Classes and

Utilization

and

Evaluation

295

Subclasses

Apparel per se Coating and printing Coating and uniting Coating and waterproofing compositions rubber containing synthetic resin containing Fabric clothing: thermal and electric treatment cloth: fireproof coating processes: textiles chemical modification combined coating: textile operation combined Making Laminated Medicated Preserving, disinfecting and sterilizing biocidal compositions coating or impregnating fireproofiing compositions Testing stress and strain of materials Textiles testing woven fiber preparation fiber finishing treating compositions Woven Waterproof

2 117 156 106 260: 726+ 260: 2 + 128: 379+ 117: 136+ 8: 115.6 28: 74+ 28 161 167: 84 167: 117: 252: 73: 73:

38.5+ 138.5+ 8.1 159 88+

73: 159 139: 383+ 19 26 252 139: 383+ 161

RECEIVED March 19, 1964. Presented on the symposium, "Searching the Literature of a Number of Specialized Fields," sponsored by the Division of Chemical Literature at the 145th Meeting of the American Chemical Society at New York, Sept. 9-13, 1963. Updated 1968.


The Literature of Textile Utilization and Evaluation - ACS Publications

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