ANALYTICAL APPRWACH
&locking THE S E C R E T S O F
THE PAST The Analysis of Archaeological Textiles and Dyes
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Pamela A. Martogllo, Steven P. Boulfard, Andre J. Sommer, and J. E. Katon Molecular Microspectroscopy Laboratory Department of Chamisby Miami University Oxford,OH 45050 Kathryn A. Jakes College of Human Ewicgy Depam" of Textiles and Clothing The Ohlo State University Columbus, OH 43210-1295 In recent years, archaeological chemists have begun to examine organic materials. Previously ignored because only small quantities survive in the archaeological context, these fragmentary and fragile organic remains have been analyzed by using new instrumental methods. For example, by examining seeds from soil flotation samples and residues inside pots, new information concerning prehistoric dietary patterns has been revealed. Differences in amber composition reflect differences in the original plants from which the resin came. Examination of textile fragments can help to elucidate prehistoric and historic technology. In this article, we will describe how microspectroscopy is being used to study textile fragments and their coloration. Molecular microspectroscopy is a powerful method for identifying organic compounds because it provides both molecular and structural information. In addition, the technique is particularly well suited for studying arcbaeological textiles because of its nonde0003-2700/901A362-1123/$02.50/0
0 1990 American Chemical Society
structive nature and ability to analyze extremely small sample sizes. Previously, dyed archaeological textiles were analyzed by destructive techniques requiring relatively large amounts of sample. Through methods involving solvent stripping, a small portion of the sample was boiled in a variety of sequential solvents. The colors observed can lead to dye classification. For example, red and violet madder dyeings on aluminum potassium sulfate (alum) or on iron sulfate mordanted wool turn orange and produce a yellow solution when boiled in 10%sulfuric acid. The presence of the hydroxyanthraquinone dye can he verified by analyzing the yellow solution (after washing with ethyl acetate) using thinlayer chromatography with a 31 solvent mixture of toluene and glacial acetic acid (I). The same dye class can also be identified by wetting several milligrams of textile with concentrated sulfuric acid, diluting the acid solution with water, and extracting the dyes with ethyl acetate. Visible spectrophotometry comparisons with a known dye extract confirmed the identification (2). IR spectral analysis of archaeological textiles found in the Bar Kochba cave in the Judean Desert was also used to identify different dyes. Alizarin (a hydroxyanthraquinone dye) was identified by extracting the sample with hydrochloric acid followed by extraction with carbon tetrachloride. The extract was dried and purified by sublimation before precipitation with 0.1 N sulfuric acid. The IR spectra (using KBr pellets) were compared with known dye 1123A
spectra for identification (3). Not only did these techniques require the destruction of large amounts of sample, but variations within the sample--such as differently colored fibers blended into a yam-are not distinguishable. In addition, the process of stripping the dye from the fiber destroys the dye-fiber complex, leading to the loss of potentially useful information conceming the dyeing process. Thus alternative nondestructive methods were developed. Molecular microspectroscopy
IR spectroscopy is often used to identify textile fibers, coatings, and fmishes. For example, blend composition of fabrics and contaminants on textiles have been identified (4,5). The crystallinity of different cellulosic materials has been measured by comparing the IR intensity ratio of absorbances at 1372 cm-'/2900 cm-' (6).Compositional changes resulting from oxidative degradation of linen aldehyde groups to carboxyl groups have also been monitored by IR spectroscopy (7). By using molecular microspectroscopy, many of the disadvantages inherent in the destructive techniques can he eliminated. Lang et al. (8) have shown that single fibers can be identified by both IR and Raman microspectroscopies. These methods are useful for identifying archaeological fibers when the characteristic surface features used for fiber identification by optical microscopy have been degraded by use and burial conditions. Previous work also indicates that it might be possible to identify dyes or other compounds that exist along with the fibers. We hoped that by using mi crospectroscopy, we could identif dyes and characterize dyeing procedures used by historic and prehistoric civilizations.
not have any strong bands in the IR region that are distinct from the absorbance bands of the fiber and thus can only be identified with the visible technique. IR spectra are obtained on an Analect AQS-20M IR microspectrophotometer system with an MCT narrowband detector. Single fibers are prepared for analysis by flattening with a metal probe and transferring to a 1mm-thick KC1 plate (9). Typical sample area8 range from 30 to 50 pm in diameter. Spectra are collected at 4 cm-I resolution and apodized using a Happ-Genzel apodization function. Each spectrum reflects the ratios of 128 background scans to 128 sample scans. Band positions are determined from first-derivative spectra of the samples. Spectral subtractions are performed by normalizing the absorbances of a band common to the dyed and undyed fibers. (Initial subtractions involved the use of several common bands for normalization. However, because no differences were observed between the resultant spectra, the G H stretch of the wool band located near 2960 cm-I was employed for the remaining subtractions.) The subtracted spectra of the dye on the fiber are then compared with spectra of known dyes to identify the sample. To test the dye detection limits on a typical fiber, a series of wool yams is dyed with amounts of Acid Red 52 dye, which nominally range from 0.01 to 4.4 w t ?6 on the fiber. Acid Red 52 (a rhodamine-type dye) has several strong IR absorption bands that do not overlap
with those of wool. In the highly loaded fibers, the dye can he identified without spectral manipulations. In the samples with lower dye concentration, the dye can he identified only after spectral subtraction of the undyed fiber spectrum from that of the dyed fiber. Figure 1 compares an Acid Red 52 spectrum obtained by subtraction with one obtained from the pure dye. Out of 17 band matches between the two spectra, the more distinct similarities are seen at 1593,1078, and 1037 cm-'. The peak present around 1700 cm-1 in the subtraction is disregarded because it results from an unsubtracted portion of one of the amide bands. This false peak is present whenever one wool fiber is subtracted from another. Peak assignments are aided by examining first-derivative spectra. The Acid Red 52 dyed fibers can also be analyzed by visible microspectroscopy. This analysis is done with an Instruments SA Ramanor U-lo00 Raman microspectrometer that was modified to obtain absorption spectra in the visible region. Basically, the tungstenhalogen light source of the microscope is imaged onto the sample using a rectangular aperture. This aperture is placed at a coincident image plane of the sample and the source, and sample areas as small as 20 X 20 pm are defied. Specific details of the modification are described elsewhere (10). Samples are prepared in a manner similar to that of the IR studies. The ratios of single-beam spectra of the sample to a background spectrum mea-
Development d the analytlcal tectmique
Prior to microspectroscopic analysis, fibers and yarns removed from textile fragments are studied by light microscopy and by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to observe any surface characteristics that could indicate fiber type (e.g., cotton or hair) as well as variances in fiber colors or types within the yarns. Energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) is used to identify any possible mordanting of the fibers. Once the fiber type and the mordant are known, IR microspectroscopy is used to analyze the dyes on the fibers. Viihle microspectroscopy serves mainly to verify the IR results, with the exception of the purpurin dye. This dye does 1124A
Flgure 1. Comparison of an IR spectrum of Acid Red 52 dye (upper trace) with a spectrum obtained by spectral subtraction of undyed wool from Acid Red 52 dyed wool (4.4 wl % on fiber) (lower trace).
ANALYTICAL CHEMISTRY. VOL. 62, NO. 21, NOVEMBER 1. 1990
Figure 2. Fiber fragments from a Paracas archaeological textile sample. soth pian1and hair fibers are 68811,some 01 Which are dyed blue. red. Or amber.
sured adjacent to the sample area are obtained to yield absorbance spectra. The spectra are collected over the range of 400400 nm with an effective resolution of 1nm. Spectra obtained on the dyed fibers are then compared with reference spectra obtained on the pure dyes. The dye is easily detected in all of the samples because the molar absorptivities of bands observed in the visible region are always much greater than those for bands in the IR. Another advantage in visible region work is that white, undyed wool has no distinct ahsorption hands in the visible region. Thus the spectrum observed could be directly related to the dye on the fiber. Peruvian archaeological fabrics and
although some inferences have been made from the ethnographic literature and from chemical analyses. A recent article describes 56 different plants that are potential local sources of dyes for textile use in Peru (14). However, other dyes must he considered if trade with other cultures across Central and South America existed. Saltzman (2) and Fester (15) have identified the source of some of the red, brown, black, green, and yellow colors found in pre-Columbian South American textiles. They attribute the red colors in Paracas textiles to the purpurin from plants in the genus Relbunium. Many species of Relbunium are native to the area, and no differentiation of species has been accomplished to date. Red colors in textiles from the later Nazca and Chimu periods have been attributed to cochineal, a dye found in the cacti insect Dactylopius C O C C ~ S that is native to areas of Mexico. Thus the textiles found in southem and northern Peru in periods later than the Paracas give evidence of some system of trade throueh South and Central America. Some botanists disagree on whether plants classified as Reliunium actually belong to the genus Gallium. The latter genus, present in North America, is very similar to madder plants of the genus Rubia found throughout Europe and Asia. Although both yield similar red colors on textiles, Relbunium and I
dyes South America has a rich history of prehistoric civilizations, and Peruvian textiles embody one expression of that history. A significant source of archaeological textiles can be found in the funerary bundles of the Paracas culture (400 B.C.400 A.D.) located on the southern coast of Peru on the Paracas peninsula. The very“ drv” climate of this region helped to preserve the elaborate iextiles buried with the elite leaders of the period. The spectacular embroidered garments were wrapped in multiple layers on the body, interleaved with yards of plain woven textiles. Some of these funerary bundles reached 7 ft in diameter. The textiles reflect a complex and advanced society through their symbolism, wide range of colors, and intricate fabric manufacture (11-13). (Fibers from one of the samples are shown in Figure 2.) Art historians have described the many images embroidered on these textiles and have inferred their meaning in terms of prehistoric ritual. Little is known about the methods used to dye these ancient textiles,
umurin
0
OH
Indigo
Rubia can he differentiated from each other by the relative concentrations of alizarin and purpurin present in the dyeing material. Rubia contains a high concentration of alizarin, whereas Relbunium contains a high concentration of purpurin as the main coloring agent. Carminic acid, the coloring agent in cochineal, is also chemically distinct. The structures of the three compounds are shown in the box. Although all three yield red colors and are anthraquinone dyes, differences in their chemical comooaitions can be used for identification: Fester (15) and Saltzman (2) attribute blue colors in Paracas textiles to indigo. This dye could have been derived from either Indigofera suffructicosa or Cybistax antisyphilitica, both of which grow in the same vicinity in Peru (14). Figure 3 compares an IR spectrum obtained by subtraction of an undyed wool spectrum from that of a blue Paracas fiber with one obtained from a pure sample of indigo. Eight absorptions associated with the dye are observed in the resultant subtraction spectrum. Some distinctive similarities are seen a t 1460,1481,1170,and 1194 cm-’. Minerals readily available from the environment were used in combination with natural dyes to provide a link between the fiber and the dye, forming a mordant “lake.” Color brightness and fastness are improved by the use of mordants in the dyeing process. Fester (15) cites the use of aluminum- and iron-containing minerals, hut the exact procedure for the mordanting and dyeing of prehistoric yarns in Paracas is unknown. Investigation of natural Peruvian dyes To establish techniques for dye identification, wool fibers were dyed with cochineal or purpurin standards. These two dyes previously had been identified in pre-Columbian fabrics by other techniques and thus provided verification of our results. Purpurin and indigo have been identified in Paracas textiles. The presence of carminic acid
ANALYTICAL CHEMISTRY, VOL. 62. NO. 21. NOVEMBER 1, 1990
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ANALYTICAL APPROACH would be possible if a system of trade had been established a t that time. In addition, the number of possible blue or red dyes is small compared with those used for yellows or browns, simplifying the investigation. Standard undyed, unfinished wool yarns (test fabrics) were mordanted with alum, cupric sulfate, ferrous sulfate, and stannous chloride, and subsequently dyed. The first dye standard used was prepared from raw cochineal insects instead of from extracted and purified carminic acid, 80 the exact
concentration of dye on the fibers is unknown. Only two mordants, alum and stannous chloride (in addition to the unmordanted sample), were examined for the purpurin-dyed standards. The exact concentration of the purpurin on the fibers is also unknown because dye precipitation occurred when mordanted fibers were added to the dye bath. IR and visible spectra of the dyed standards were obtained and spectral subtractions were performed as for the Acid Red 52 dyed samples. Neither co-
-
4000 3700 3400 3100 2800 2500 2200 1900
Wavenumber 1cm-l) rlgun a. bornpanson 01 IMspecua. Ths UPFU trm Is of indigo dye. The lower trace Is obtained after spectral sbmctlon of an undyed -1 a p s c ” hm thai of a blue Paracar archaeologicai liber.
Flgure 4. Comparison of IR spec The uppsr bace Is of COChlneal dye. The lower trace 16 obtained after spectral subbactim 01 an undyed wool spscbum hmthat of a codlnsal4yed wool fiber.
1lZ6A
ANALYTICAL CHEMISTRY, VOL. 62, NO. 21, NOVEMBER 1, I990
chineal nor purpurin could be detected in the IR spectra unless spectral subtractions were performed. After spectral subtraction, the dye could easily be identified in all of the dyed samples (see Figure 4). Cochineal was identified by the band at 1548 em-’ and the doublet around 1050 cm-’. The mordant bad no apparent effect on the IR spectra, although mordant effects were seen in the visible spectra. The addition of a mordant increased the absorbance of the dye bands in the visible region. These increased absorbance values support the theory that mordanting strengthens the dye-fiber complex, leading to higher concentrations of dye on the fibers. Interestingly, even though different colors were obtained with different mordants, the visible spectra of the mordanted, dyed fibers did not exhibit peak shifts compared to those of the unmordanted dyed fibers. The reason for this observation is still under investigation. An alum-mordanted alpaca wool yarn dyed with Relbunium plants collected in Peru was obtained from the Laboratory for Historic Colorants, University of California. The IR and visible spectra of a single fiber were obtained and compared with those of the purpurin-dyed wool. Both the IR spectra of the Relbunium-dyed, alummordanted fibers and the spectral subtractions of the undyed, mordanted wool from the Relbunium-dyed wool matched those of the purpurin-dyed, alum-mordanted wool spectra and spectral subtractions, respectively. The visible spectra of the Relbuniumdyed, alum-mordanted wool fibers were identical to the visible spectra of the purpurin-dyed, alum-mordanted wool fibers, with two peaks a t 512 and 550 nm. These results, which are expected because purpurin is the main coloring component in Relbunium, support the accuracy of the microspectroscopic technique.
Application to archaeologlcal samples Six specimens of yarn or fibers were chosen from a larger collection of samples obtained from Paracas funerary textiles housed in the Museo Naeional de Antropologia y Arqueologia in Lima, Peru. The samples in the collection were not cut directly from the textiles (because of museum regulations) but were obtained by collecting loose fibers and yarns in or on the textiles. It was assumed that these samples originated from the textiles with which they were stored. The specimens investigated came from a turban, various skirts or skirt fringes, and a mantle (a type of
cloak or wrap). Five of the specimens selected are single yarns or accumulations of loose fihers taken from colored sections of the embroidered textiles. These contain two or more differently colored fihers. The sixth specimen, taken from the base fabric of a skirt rather than from a surface emhroidery yam, is assumed to be undyed because of its yellow/brown coloration (which is typical of an aged fiber) and ita function in the embroidered textile. Fibers from the specimens were examined microscopically using brightfield, phase contrast, polarized light, and differential interference contrast techniques. The characteristic scalar structure of hair fibers and twisting shape of cotton fibers were observed. IR microspectroscopic analyses of the samples confirmed the identification of the fibers’ sources as protein and cellulose. The comhination of different types of hair fibers and cotton indicates the possibility of purposeful fiber blending by prehistoric people of Paracas. The comhination of differently colored fibers within single yarns indicates the possibility of fiber dyeing prior to yarn production. Further discussion of the Paracas textiles and analytical techniques-including light microscopy, SEM,EDS, and microspectroscopy-as well as the technology for textile production used by these prehistoric people may be found in other publications (16,17). IR and visible microspectroscopies subsequently were used to identify the dyes present in fibers representative of each color within the samples. The mantle sample, for example, contained amber, red, blue, and colorless fibers (Figure 2). The colorless fibers are cellulosic and, because of their microscopic appearance, it can he concluded that they are immature cotton fibers. Some of the colored fibers are protein; because of their microscopic appearance, it can be concluded that they are haii fibers. Indigo was identified in the blue fibers by both IR and visible microspectroscopies. Purpurin was identified as the coloring component in the red fibers of the yarns in this mantle. Figure 5 compares the visible spectra of Relbunium-dyed wool with a red Paracas fiber. For comparison, a portion of this Paracas period yarn was examined and purpurin was identified by solution spectroscopy at the Laboratory for Historical Colorants. Of the remaining fiber samples, indigo was identified in all blue or dark green fibers and purpurin in all red fibers. Carminic acid and the other coloring agents in cochineal
were not found in any of the samples, which is consistent with previous analyses that did not identify cochineal in textiles produced earlier than the Nazca and Chimu periods (2).Discovery of Cochineal in Paracas textiles would indicate trade routes between Mexico and Peru. EDS analysis of cross sections of the fibers revealed a concentration of heavy elements on the surface of the fibers from soil encrustation. The presence of aluminum throughout the fihers indicated that they probably were mordanted with alum in the dyeing process, as Fester (15) states.
Future work
Our research has shown the potential of microspectroscopy for analyzing dyes in archaeological textile fibers. l3atahlishment of a standard dye spectrum library that includes natural dyes native to Peru would help to provide clues about prehistoric Peruvian dyeing technology. Similar work can be performed on other textiles from different periods of history and regions of the world. We believe that microspectroscopy will continue to serve as a powerful tool for unlocking the secrets of the past.
tiuu
Wavelength (nm)
(a) Relburiumdysd wool and (b) red wool tlba hom a Pama6 mantle ample
ANALYTICAL CHEMISTRY, VOL. 62. NO, 21, NOVEMBER 1, 1990
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ANALYTICAL APPROACH The contribution of an alpaca yarn dyed with Rdbunium from the Antunez de Msyoln eolleelion hy Mar Saltrmsn. Labratory for Historic Colorants. University of California. is grstefully acknowledged. Thanks are due to K. Antunez de Msyolo for some thought-prwokingconversation. and to R. Wolfe. Alliance Imports. S a c r m " ~ . for contrihution of some dyes. Thirrerearrhwassupported in part hysrsteand federal fundrappropristedtothe Ohio AgricUltUIa1 Research and Development Center (No. 12190).
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References
Historic Textile and Paper Moteriols: Conserr8aiton ond Charartenzarmn: Needles. H.I... 7xron,an. S. H..Edr.: American Chemical S m . e t y Washington, DC,1986;pp: 153-74. (2) Saltzman. M. In ArehoeoloRieal Chemisfry II: Carter. G.F., Ed.; American Chemical Society: Washington. DC. I 9 7 8 pp. 172-85. (3) Abrahams. D.H.;Edeistein. S. M. Am. Dyesr. Rep. 1964.53.19-25. (4)Csrlsson, D.J.;Wiles. D. M. In A p lied Fibre Science; Happey, F.,Ed.;Acadmic Press: New York, 1978, p 271 324 (5) Grieble. D.L.; GarAer. S.A. Text. Chem. Col. 1989,21,11-13. (6) Nelson. M. L.; O'Conner. R.T.J . Appl. P d y m . Sei. 1964.3, 132541. (1) Schweow, H. In
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~
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(7) Kleinert, T. N.Holzlorschung 1972.26.
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(8) Lang. P. L.;Katon. J. E.;O'Keefe. J. F.; Schiering. D. W. Miwoehem. J . 19R6.34,
319-31. (9) Katon. J. E.; Lang. P.L.; Schiering, D. W.;O'Keefe. J. F. In TheDesipn.Snmple Handling. and Application of Infrared Microscopes; Roush, P. €IEd.; ., American Society for Testingand Materials: Philadelphia. 1987. ASTM STP 949: pp. 49-63.
(101 Sommer. A. J.; Martoalio. P.A.: Kston, .I. E Appl. Sporrror~..in press. 1 1 1 1 Feltham. J. Prrutton TcIrd/t,s: Shire Ethnngraphy: Ayleshurg. Rurka. I1.K..
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Pamela A. Martoglio (upper left)received n B.A. degree f r o m Illinois Wesleyan Uniuersity in 1987. She is currently a Ph.D. student in analytical chemistry at Miami Uniuersity, working in the Molecular Microspectroscopy Laboratory (MML)andstudyingpractical applications of IR and uisible microspectroscopies. J. E. Katon (upper right),professor of chemistry and director of the MML at Miami Uniuersity, holds a B.A. degree from Bowling Green State Uniuersity,an M.S degree from Kansas State University. and a Ph.D. from the University of Maryland. He joined Miami University in 1968.He is interested in the analytical and physical chemistry applications of IR and Raman spectroscopies. Andr2 J. Sommer (lower right) receiued a B.S. degree from Delaware Valley College and an M.S. degree and Ph.D. from Lehigh Uniuersity. I n 1986 he joined the MML and is assistant director of the laboratory. His research interests are centered around the deuelopment and applications of IR and Ramon microspectroscopies. Steuen P. Bouffard (lower left)received a B.S. degree in chemistry from Loyola Marymount University i n 1990 and is currently in the Ph.D. program at Miami Uniuersity. His undergraduate research inuolued the characterization of furniture finishes using IR microspectroscopy. Kathryn A. Jakes is associate professor in the Textiles and Clothing Department, College of Human Ecology, at The Ohio State University. She holds a R.S. degree from the University of Illinois, an M.S. degree from the Uniuersity of Maryland, and a Ph.D. in textile and polymer science from Clemson University. Her research focuses on the study of polymeric materials.
ANALYTICAL CMMISTRY. VOL. 62, NO. 21. NOVEMBER 1. 1990
