Glossary
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alizarin A n orange crystalline compound, insoluble in cold water; made synthetically f r o m anthraquinone; used in the manufacture of dyes and red pigments. Also k n o w n as 1,2-dihydroxy anthraquinone. Found as a component in several natural dyes. alpaca A n artiodactyl of the camel family (Camelidae); economically important for its long, fine w o o l . bast fiber A n y fiber stripped from the inner bark of plants, such as flax, hemp, jute, and ramie; used in textile and paper manufacturing. brazilin A bright-yellow compound obtained from brazilwood as a crystalline powder and used as a dye and indicator. brazilwood A reddish w o o d obtained f r o m several tropical American trees (genus Caesaipinia) of the legume family. bave A term for the natural silk thread spun by the silkworm in making the cocoon. It contains two single filaments called brins that are bound together b y a gelatinous gum called sericin. brin
A single filament of natural silk spun b y the silkworm.
camelid Fibers of the camel family (Camelidae) including alpaca, camel, llama, and vicuna. C I E L A B A n internationally accepted color space. C I E stands for Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage. L A B stands for coordinates 1, a, and b, which are defined as mathematical coordinates in the threedimensional color space. (Billmeyer, F. W.; Saltzman, M . "Principles of C o l o r Technology", 2nd ed.; Wiley: N e w York, 1981; C h a p . 2.) color space A three-dimensional color-order system in which the shades and depths of shades of colored objects can be arranged, described, and distinguished from one another. cutch
A tannin colorant extracted from mangrove bark.
earspool A spool-shaped earplug worn buttoned through a hole in the earlobe, especially by the ancient H o p e w e l l and Copena people. Jordan A machine or engine used to refine paper pulp, consisting of a rotating cone, with cutters, that fits inside another cone, also with cutters. lake A n y of a large group of dyes that have been combined with or adsorbed b y salts of calcium, barium, chromium, aluminum, phosphotungstic acid, or phosphomolybdic acid; used for textile dyeing. Also k n o w n as color lake. 443 Needles and Zeronian; Historic Textile and Paper Materials Advances in Chemistry; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1986.
444 littoral
HISTORIC TEXTILES A N D PAPER MATERIALS
Of, on, or along the shore.
madder The root of the madder plant (Rubia tinctonurn), pulverized and used as source of glucosides to produce alizarin by fermentation. Also known as gamene.
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malacology
The study of mollusks.
mordant An agent, such as alum, phenol, or aniline, that fixes dyes to tissues, cells, textiles, and other materials by combining with the dye to form an insoluble compound. Also known as dye mordant. natural colorants sources. premordanting dyeing. provenance
Dyes and pigments extracted from plant and mineral Adding or impregnating a mordant onto a textile before
Origin; derivation; source.
pseudomorph An altered mineral whose crystal form has the outward appearance of another mineral species. Also known as false form. pseudomorph after fabric An altered mineral whose crystal form has replaced a textile fabric through mineralization to form an exact replica of that fabric. vat dye One of the dyes that are easily reduced to a soluble and colorless form in which they easily impregnate fibers; subsequent oxidation produces the final color; examples are indigo and indanthrene blue.
Some of these definitions are reproduced with permission from the "McGraw-Hill Dictionary of Scientific and Technical Terms, Third Edition". Copyright 1984 The McGraw-Hill Book Company.
Needles and Zeronian; Historic Textile and Paper Materials Advances in Chemistry; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1986.
