Chapter 10
Silicones in Personal Care Applications 1
Roy U . Rojas Wahl1,*, J . R. Nicholson , and Judith L . Kerschner
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GE Advanced Materials, Silicones, 771 O l d Saw Mill River Road, Tarrytown, N Y 10591 International Flavor and Fragrances, Inc., 1515 State Highway #36, Union Beach, NJ 07735 Corresponding author:
[email protected] Silicone fluids and modified silicone fluids can provide a range of benefits when formulated in various shower/bath products. The nature of these benefits is dependent upon the functionality on the silicone polymer and on the properties of the shower or bath product into which they are introduced. Thus, different silicones can be used to modify in-use product properties, enhance lather, and deliver a variety of post-use sensory experiences. Some silicone materials can assist in deposition from wash-off products. Others can be blended with organic oils, such as triglyceride oils, petrolatum, or mineral oil, to provide a novel after-wash feel while maintaining the occlusive or moisturizing properties of the organic material. To optimize the benefits of these silicones in shower/bath products, it is critical to understand the interactions of the silicone materials with the other standard formulation ingredients such as surfactants, emulsifiers, perfumes and polymers and how these interactions will affect the product performance. This work will highlight some of the key benefits that silicone fluids can deliver from a range of bath/shower product formats.
© 2007 American Chemical Society
In Cosmetic Nanotechnology; Morgan, S., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2007.
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Introduction Body washes and shower gels account for about 56 % of the total of the bath and shower sector in the U . S. Traditionally, the use of silicone fluids in such personal washing applications has been limited to dimethicone oils, often for conditioning purposes. There remain, however, many unmet formulation needs such as actives or fragrance deposition, since much of those ingredients tend to be just washed away and are given only a very limited amount of time to approach or penetrate the skin. Also, enhanced moisturization with superior sensory properties is of high importance. These two and more arguments hold the need for new and innovative technologies. Here we show that multifunctional silicones can deliver perceivable benefits, including those aforementioned, and additionally, modify lather and deliver a variety of post-use sensory experiences. First, we introduce the unique characteristics of several polyether copolyols. Then we focus on head-space measurements for the investigation of fragrance deposition, which is enhanced by a combination of alkyl modified silicone waxes and high viscosity dimethyl fluids, showing unique synergistic benefits. Also, we show how the tackiness of a classic occlusive material such as petrolatum can be migitated through the use of a superspreading trisiloxane without compromising transepidermal water loss, and we introduce sensory enhancing silicone crosspolymer gels and their effect on important sensory attributes such as tackiness, oiliness, silkiness and afterfeel.
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Experimental Fragrance Measurements (See Figure 1). Over Product: 500 mg of body wash product was added to a 20mL G C vial and left to equilibrate for 24 hours. Then samples were analyzed by G C - M S using Solid Phase Microextraction (SPME) sampling with an Agilent 6890 G C with 5973 M S Inert detector equipped with a Gerstel MPS-2 autosampler. Over Skin : 1.0 g of body wash was applied to a wet volar forearm and the arm was washed for 30 seconds, rinsed for 10 seconds and patted dry. A specially designed round-bottomed flask equipped with a "sealed cap" was fitted over the arm and an S P M E needle was inserted into the flask. The headspace above the arm was sampled for 30 minutes and then the S P M E needle was injected into an Agilent 5890 G C with a 5970 M D S detector. The total fragrance areas were then calculated and compared across products (Figures 5 & 6). 2,3
Sensory Measurements. A 12 person naïve internal panel was asked to apply a small amount of material on the forearm and then rank 5 different skin feel sensory attributes on a scale of 1-10. Sunflower Oil was used as a standard and set to a score of 5 on each attribute. The panelists then scored the other
In Cosmetic Nanotechnology; Morgan, S., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2007.
In Cosmetic Nanotechnology; Morgan, S., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 2007.
Figure 1: a) SPME needles coated with PDMS/Carboxen to absorb volatiles from atmosphere, b) Sampling from product itself, c) Sampling of deposition on skin after wash
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180 products based on the standard (i.e. less tacky than sunflower oil, score
