.C&EN ANNUAL REVIEW OF DEVELOPMENTS IN
M I L T O N H A R R I S , President, a n d J O H N K R A S N Y , Research Associate, Associate, Harris Research Laboratories, Washington, D. G G
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TEXTILES
A Ann Era Era of of Consolidation Consolidation for fo To c a p i t a l i z e on use of n e w synthetic fibers, textile industry needs p e r i o d of consolidation a n d self-analysis R e b o o m of cottons f o r clothing d u e to textile in dustry study of consumer wants 1 χ THE wake of the excitement caused of the growth of cellulose in the boll to by introduction of t h e new synthetic th ultimate chemical finishes which fibers, the textile industry is now entil have helped raise cotton to a position ing a period of consolidation and atten of importance in the field of fashion. tion to many previously overlooked de Chemical improvements begin with tails. The fiber market is still considered the growing of the fiber. The chemical one of the greatest frontiers for expan defoliant market, at present about $10 sion of the chemical industry but the million annually, is estimated to account realization that the production of a for only about 1 5 % of its potential size. chemical polymer is probably one of New entries in this field are, among the easiest phases of the job has sobered others, sodium ethyl xanthate, magne much of the over-enthusiasm of recent sium chlorate hexahydrate, and a solu years. The major problems now are ble form of sodium cyanamide. concerned with difficulties in evalua The partial acetylation of cotton with tion of newer fibers, of fitting them into acetic anhydride for protection from proper frames of reference, and in heat and biological d a m a g e advanced to changing manufacturers* and con the commercial production stage. Fab sumers' habits. All of these are time- rics, thus treated, are said to be com consuming. petitive with nylon for articles used by The trends in consumption of fibers the laundry industry. Similar improve are shown in Figure 1. A striking fea ments in addition to better dyeing and ture is the expansion in use of man- mechanical properties are claimed for made fibers in the industrial and ap cotton cyanoethylated by treatment in parel fields. Future trends will depend conventional yarn dyeing equipment on economic factors and improved with acrylonitrile. Reduction of the functionality and the chemists' role will crystallinity of the cellulose by 20-30 r /6 by use of anhydrous monoethylamine be an important one in both phases. raises the extensibility and energy ab Chemical Finishes Result in sorption characteristics, improves dyeCotton A p p a r e l Boom ability and chemical reactivity, b u t re The progress of cotton in regaining duces initial modulus and recovery. some of its lost markets, especially ii ι Permanently improved abrasion re the clothing field, is an outstanding ex: sistance was said to result from warp ample of t h e success of a multiprontfecl sizing with a butadiene-acrylonitrile approach, necessary for gaining fiber copolymer of high nitrile content. and fabric acceptance. This approucri Treatment of cotton with beta-propioincluded market and opinion surveys t o lactone resulted in twice the normal determine cottons' strong and weak bulk and reduced hvgroscopicity. A points and especially the areas in whicTi durable flame-proof finish and crease, most could be gained by research. Con mildew and weather resistance were tributing to cottons* increased prestige produced by treatment with tetrakisis a spectrum of studies and treatments hydroxymethyl-phosphonium chloride ranging from radioactive tracer studies ( T H P C ) and trimethylol melamine. 38
C H E M I C A L
Basic research on wool included work on the correlation of properties with structural characteristics as well as with sheep breed and environmental condi tions. T w o n e w structural concepts have been advanced. At the molecular level, the existence of molecular "cables" of a central coiled molecule with six molecules coiled around it has been suggested. Morphologically, the fiber was shown to consist of the acidophilous paracortex a n d the less stable basophilous orthocortex; crimp was re lated to this bilateral structure. Treat ments of wool with alkenyl succinic compounds were claimed to improve feltability and dyeability. Modification with bi-functional compounds such as 4,6 (bis-chloromethyl)-l,3-dimethylbenzene and b y partial substitution of amino and phenol groups was reported to increase wool's resistance to fungi. T h e formation of covalent-linked moth proofing agents and dyes in wool was reported. A laboratory method for con tinuous scouring utilizing the natural suint salts by addition of butyl alcohol was developed. Newer antishrinkage treatments for wool include use of polyamide resins, natural rubber latices, and silicone emulsions. W e a r tests showed that with chlorination processes, the deeper the penetration of the treatment into the fiber, the shorter the wear-life. U. S. a n d F o r e i g n E x p a n s i o n N o t e d i n M a n - M a d e Fibers
The field of the newer synthetic fibers, crowded as it m a y seem to some harassed textile men, still attracts the imagination of researchers. Pinic acid produced from turpentine has been used to make a fiber with properties resembling nylon. A polyvinylidene cyanide fiber, called Zetek, is claimed to be in pilot plant stage. A fully syn thetic protein fiber was patented as was a polybutadine fiber coagulated in sul fur dioxide. Modification of polyethyl ene by cathode ray irradiation causes AND
ENGINEERING
NEWS
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