Thanksgiving Chemistry for Your Family's Feast

11/16/2016

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Thanksgiving Chemistry for your Family’s Feast

Bill Courtney

Guy Crosby

Food Chemist and Grant Specialist, Washington University School of Medicine

Science Editor, America's Test Kitchen and Adjunct Associate Professor, Harvard Chan School of Public Health

Slides available now! Recordings will be available to ACS members.


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Guy Crosby, Ph.D., CFS America’s Test Kitchen Harvard School of Public Health

Three Take-Aways with Recipes • How to cook juicy, flavorful turkey with crispy skin • How to make great gravy and mashed potatoes • How to select and cook delicious healthy vegetables

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When I cook a turkey: • It turns out too dry • The skin is not brown and crispy enough • I’m not sure when it is done • I’m not sure how to plan my cooking so the turkey is done on time • It comes out perfect every time

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Problems with Cooking Turkey • Cooking white breast meat and dark drumstick/thigh meat so they both turn out juicy and tender • Producing crispy brown skin • Making sure a safe temperature of 165F (74C) is reached throughout

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Cooking shrinks muscle fibers squeezing out moisture Component

Breast Meat

Drumstick

H2O

75%

76%

Fat

1.5%

4.0%

Protein

23.7%

20.5%

Collagen

2.4 mg/g

4.0 mg/g

To

140F (60C)

142F (61C)

To = onset temperature of shrinkage

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• Muscle fibers shrink about 30% at 150F • Moisture loss is temperature dependent % Weight Loss in Chicken Breast 140F (60C)

10%

147F (64C)

12%

160F (71C)

24%

• Collagen breakdown starts 140F, fast 160F Pork Shoulder Breakdown 140F

31 hrs

158F

16 hrs

176F

7 hrs

194F

2 hrs 20

Cook’s Science, America’s Test Kitchen, 2016, page 44

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Brining and salting reduce moisture loss

Salting 1 hour

Salting 12 hours

Salting 24 hours

Salting 48 hours

Salt 0.5%; Sodium 200mg/100g -Cook’s Illustrated Nov/Dec 2012

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Recipe • Salt 12-14 lb turkey under skin, refrigerate for 24-48 hrs uncovered, thoroughly dry skin – 4 tsp 1:1 salt/sugar for breast – 2 tsp 1:1 salt/sugar for each drumstick

• Rub 2 Tbsp oil + 1 tsp baking powder on skin • Roast at 400F (204C) until inner thigh = 160F • Rest for 30-45 minutes before carving • Ensure turkey (and stuffing) reaches 165F 22

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Temperature should reach 165F in thickest part of the thigh

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When making mashed potatoes: • I don’t know what kind of potatoes are best • My mashed potatoes never turn out as good as I like • My potatoes are often gluey and pasty • I wish there was a delicious alternative to mashed potatoes • I know how to make great mashed potatoes

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Problems with Mashed Potatoes Potatoes turn out “gluey”

Mealy

Waxy

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• Mealy potatoes contain more starch forcing cells to separate on cooking (baking) • Waxy potato cells with less starch remain intact (potato salad) • Use intermediate starch Yukon gold potatoes • Mix with butter and cream or milk if desired; season

Mealy potatoes form clumps of cells

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When making gravy: • I never seem to make enough gravy • My gravy never turns out as good as I’d like • I prefer not to make gravy • I’d like to learn how to make great gravy • I know how to make great gravy

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• Prepare stock with neck, giblets, finely chopped onion, carrot, celery, salt • Cooking onion slowly produces savory 3-mercapto2-methylpentan-1-ol (MMP) • Remove drippings from roasting pan and separate most fat • Return drippings to pan with fond • Strain stock, add to pan plus roux • Cook slowly to thicken and season 28

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• 3-Mercapto-2-methylpentan-1-ol (MMP)

• • • •

Intense savory, onion, gravy-like aroma Highest “odor activity value” in gravy Detected at concentration of 7.7 μg/liter Odor threshold 1.6 ppt (0.0016 μg/liter)

Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 2000; 48: 418-423 Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 2011; 59: 13122-13130

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When cooking vegetables: • I always make the same vegetables • I’d like some ideas for new vegetable dishes • I often use frozen vegetables • I’d like some ideas for vegetables I can prepare ahead of time • I already make great vegetable dishes

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Choose Healthy Cruciferous Vegetables

Flavor created only when vegetables chopped 32

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Roasted Brussel Sprouts with Bacon • Cut medium to small Brussels sprouts in half • Coat with olive oil, roast in 400F oven 18 min • Fry bacon and dry on paper towels • Mix bacon bits + a little fat with sprouts • Squeeze on lemon juice, salt and pepper 33

Julia Child’s Brown Braised Onions • Intense savory umami taste & aroma • Peel small pearl onions and gently sauté in butter-oil until evenly brown • Slowly braised in beef stock and wine • Season with thyme, salt, pepper • Complex flavors developed: Maillard, caramelization, MMP, dialkyl disulfides and trisulfides, thiophenes, thymol 34

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Cooking with Ria: Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Alfred Knoff, 1961

www.cookingscienceguy.com

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Bill Courtney

Guy Crosby





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Bill Courtney

Guy Crosby





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How has ACS Webinars ® benefited you?

“The only reason the webinar did not meet my expectation, was because my expectation was low due to webinars from other providers. This was an EXCELLENT Webinar in terms of interest, content, knowledge of speaker, hosting, and length. Look forward to many more.” bit.ly/IceCreamChemistry2

Tom Callaghan Head, IOL Materials Research at Alcon, a Novartis Company ACS member for 26 years strong!

Be a featured fan on an upcoming webinar! Write to us @ [email protected]

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11/16/2016

youtube.com/acswebinars

Search for “acswebinars” and connect! 41

Benefits of ACS Membership Chemical & Engineering News (C&EN) The preeminent weekly news source.

NEW! Free Access to ACS Presentations on Demand® ACS Member only access to over 1,000 presentation recordings from recent ACS meetings and select events.

NEW! ACS Career Navigator Your source for leadership development, professional education, career services, and much more.

http://bit.ly/benefitsACS

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Thanksgiving Chemistry for Your Family's Feast

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