Chapter 12
W O O L Y : Wool Dyeing
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Henderson Azevedo, Jr., and Gertrude Frei Sandoz Limited, Methods and Models, 210733, CH-4002 Basel, Switzerland
WOOLY, a marketing expert system for wool dyeing i s presented. WOOLY i s f u l l y operable. It helps the dyer with his daily work of finding adequate dyestuffs for specific quality requirements. The system assists in all steps of the wool dyeing process providing the user with information concerning several topics in the f i e l d of wool dyeing, as well as c a l l i n g his attention to the points he must consider with special care.
WOOLY i s a f u l l y operable expert system i n the area of wool dyeing. It was developed at Sandoz Ltd Switzerland for the dyestuff departments of the parent company and i t s subsidiaries as well as for external technicians and clients of Sandoz Ltd. The system supports 5 languages (German, English, French, I t a l i a n and Spanish) and i s now in use a l l over the world. The process of wool dyeing consists of several steps. To obtain the desired color i s just one single step in this process. In each step many parameters have to be considered, and even for specialists i t i s a task that requires time and a considerable amount of effort. A specific education and years of experience are necessary to become a wool dyeing expert, and this kind of specialist i s scarce. The user of the system should not be a novice in the f i e l d of dyeing. He must have some knowledge about dyeing but he does not need to be a wool dyeing s p e c i a l i s t . WOOLY i s intended to help the dyer with his daily work. It w i l l help him to choose i n every 0097-6156/89/0408-0158$06.00/0 c 1989 American Chemical Society
In Expert System Applications in Chemistry; Hohne, B., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1989.
12. AZEVEDO & FREI
WOOLY: Wool Dyeing
159
circumstances the r i g h t d y e s t u f f and i t w i l l inform him about the c r i t i c a l p o i n t s .
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The Wool Dveina
Procedure
A schematic r e p r e s e n t a t i o n o f the wool dyeing process i s g i v e n i n f i g u r e 1. On the b a s i c screen output o f WOOLY ( f i g u r e 2) the schematic r e p r e s e n t a t i o n o f the wool dyeing process i s shown i n the upper p a r t o f the screen. For each item the p o s s i b l e options are shown i n a menu a t r i g h t . For the wool dyeing procedure i t i s necessary t o know the a r t i c l e ( f o r i n s t a n c e carpet o r c l o t h e s ) t h a t w i l l be produced as w e l l as i t s care l e v e l (dry c l e a n i n g , hand washable o r machine washable). For each a r t i c l e and care l e v e l , some q u a l i t y p r o p e r t i e s (endusefastness-requirements) have t o be achieved. They can be given by i n t e r n a t i o n a l standards o r f i x e d by the customer o f the dye company i n order t o meet h i s own q u a l i t y requirements. Standard requirements f o r hand k n i t t i n g yarn with care l e v e l hand wash are shown i n f i g u r e 3 (maximum = 5, f o r Xeno maximum = 8 ) . The dyeing process i s only one step w i t h i n a sequence o f operations, f o r i n s t a n c e washing, a s p e c i f i c chemical treatment, e t c . The dyer chooses t h i s sequence according t o the a v a i l a b l e raw m a t e r i a l , h i s own equipment and experience. On the one hand t h i s sequence o f operations determines the type o f subs t r a t e (untreated, c h l o r i n a t e d o r h e r c o s e t t wool), which i s an important parameter f o r the f a s t n e s s l e v e l o f a c e r t a i n d y e s t u f f . (Fastnesses are q u a n t i f i e d q u a l i t y a t t r i b u t e s l i k e r e s i s t a n c e t o water under d i f f e r e n t temperatures o r l i g h t exposure.) On the other hand the o p e r a t i o n s executed a f t e r the dyeing process should not damage the shade. T h i s r e q u i r e s s p e c i f i c q u a l i t y p r o p e r t i e s (processing-fastness-requirements) o f the dyestuff. D y e s t u f f s with s i m i l a r f a s t n e s s - p r o p e r t i e s are grouped i n t o c l a s s e s . Knowing the requirements and the s u b s t r a t e , the c l a s s o f d y e s t u f f can be chosen. The d e s i r e d c o l o r can be achieved by combining d y e s t u f f s w i t h i n one o f these c l a s s e s . The e x i s t i n g programs t o c a l c u l a t e r e c i p e s can produce ( i n a time-consuming process) a l o t o f combinations t h a t y i e l d the r i g h t c o l o r , but they do not care about the f a s t n e s s e s t h a t are achieved by a r e c i p e . To r e s t r i c t the number o f p o s s i b l e r e c i p e s as w e l l as t o ensure the necessary q u a l i t y , a p r e s e l e c t i o n o f d y e s t u f f s a c c o r d i n g t o the s p e c i f i c requirements must be made. WOOLY can p r o v i d e the user with a l l the necessary i n f o r m a t i o n about the d y e s t u f f s , and i t can help the dyer t o make a reasonable p r e s e l e c t i o n o f d y e s t u f f s . The diagram i n f i g u r e 4 shows the range o f shade depth (minimum = 0, maximum = 4) where each d y e s t u f f i n a c l a s s meets a l l
In Expert System Applications in Chemistry; Hohne, B., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1989.
In Expert System Applications in Chemistry; Hohne, B., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1989.
Care Level
Dyeing Machine
Type Substrate
Processing Fastness Requirements
Enduse Fastness Requirements
Dyeing Process
Dyestuff Class
F i g u r e 1. Schematic r e p r e s e n t a t i o n o f t h e wool dyeing p r o c e s s .
Sequence o f Operations
Article
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Dyeing Chemicals
Fastness
Color Selection
1
X
o
1as
a
3
s
In Expert System Applications in Chemistry; Hohne, B., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1989.
level
!
F i g u r e 2. system.
LTD.
ipManuf ac. f a s t n .
range !
Recipe
-irColour
Quit:
Main screen output o f the WOOLY e x p e r t
Sel:
Exit:
Outerwear Hand k n i t t . y a r n Slubb./weav.yarn Hats Work c l o t h e s Socks/underwear Uniforms Furniture fabric
-Article-
•^Dyeing machine—Dyeing process—Chemicals
-Substrate type* Fastness prop.
-End use fastn.^Dye
Seq. operations*!
Move:
Care
Article
S A N D O Z
Downloaded by UNIV OF CALIFORNIA SAN FRANCISCO on February 18, 2015 | http://pubs.acs.org Publication Date: September 1, 1989 | doi: 10.1021/bk-1989-0408.ch012
In Expert System Applications in Chemistry; Hohne, B., et al.; ACS Symposium Series; American Chemical Society: Washington, DC, 1989.
3
SN-ISO X12 SN-ISO X12 SN-ISO E01
Rubbing dry
Rubbing wet
Water
ISO-B02
Xeno >1/12 SD
4
3
3.5
3 3.5
3.5
Co/PA
Quit:
3.5
3.5
Wo
F i g u r e 3. Standard enduse f a s t n e s s requirements f o r hand k n i t t i n g yarn.
Move:
ISO-B02
Xeno
