edited by GEOFFREY DAVIES ALANL. MCCLELLAND
cooperative education Cosmetic Science A Career Option for Majors in Chemistry J. Leon Lichtin University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy, Cincinnati, OH 45267
Billie L. Radd Johnson & Johnson Baby Products Company, Skillman. NJ 08558
T h e growing field of cosmetic science provides a useful, interesting, and challenging career option for those students with a bachelor's degree in chemistry. Growth of opportunit y in this field is due t o a n increased use of cosmetics, an expansion of departments of research and development within cosmetic companies, and increasing activity of government regulatory agencies in the area of cosmetics. Undergraduate training in chemistry not only provides much of the scientific background required for entrance to graduate studies in this area b u t also serves a s a n excellent foundation for professional growth during one's career and for keeping current by means of continuing education. T h e best prepared applicants t o the cosmetic science graduate program a t the University of Cincinnati are those with full sequences in organic, physical, biological, and analytical chemistry with instrumentation, physics, and calculus and some course work (or experience) in microbiology and computer usage. A grade point average of B or better and letters of recommendation are prerequisites. Fluency in communicative skills is especially desired. Cosmetic science itself may be defined a s the design, formulation, manufacture, stabilization, evaluation, control management, safety, mechanism of action, and claim suhstantiation of cosmetic products. Each of these categories will he defined or described with some illustrative examples or problems. Information will be provided on the concerns and professional responsibilities of the cosmetic scientist and on how this field can provide acareer t h a t is intellectually creative and challenging. Design. This includes the challenge of creating a novel or improved way of applying, formulating, or packaging a product. Examples include the roll-on applicator for antiperspirants, aerosol shavingcream, metered mascara, the various physical forms of eye makeup, the emerging use of pheromones in fragrances, and the combining of foundation and pigment in a cake formulation to be applied in dry form with a brush. Formulation. Formulation requires utilization of knowledge of the chemical, physical, biological, and toxicoIogical properties of numerous substances to prepare, evaluate, or improve cosmetic preparations. A few examples include substances that function within formulations as surface-active agents (such as emulsifiers, dispersants, solubilizers, and detergents), thickeners, film formers, anti-irritants, preservatives, colors, fragrances, and agents that are substantive to the hair and skin. Included aresubstances that aid in the hydration, cleansing, and solar protection of skin and those that are used to cleanse, wave, color, or bleach hair and increase its manageability. The optimum selection of materials to ohtain a desired product property or function provides the co8metic scientist with significant intellectual challenge and satisfaction.
Manufacture. In this area one strives to select the optimummethod or order of addition. mixine. ". filline. ". and sealine. " Knowledre gained at the research level is applied in the larger scales of preparation and manufacture. Stabilization. Included here are the many pathways and mechanisms by whichsubstances are unstable, either chemically, physicalIv. or bioloeicallv. - . Interactions between ineredients are often an lisuc. 'l'hr chrmicnl, ph~rrral,tuxiCdogird, and hacteriulogirnl prupertit.sof posr~hlepreserwtivel nnust nll he kept in miudduring their arlrction nnd evaluation. I'rrsrrvat~vesthemielves can suffpr loss of effectiveness because of partitioning between phases, complexation with a formula ingredient, or adsorption onto a container or its closure. Eualuation. Because of its need to prove claims, this aspect of cosmetic science is among those most found in current publications. Two examples will be cited. Sunscreens have to be tested for the sun protection factor (SPF), waterproofnessand efficacy toward specific waveleneths of lieht (1.2).Skin moisturizers are tested to determiwrowhnr exten; rhes~ateuitl~r~kin'~hydratir,n ir intlurncrd by the pnrducr. The methuds used nre imrinx~ngin their wriety and seimt~iirl,aw (3). Mrasurrmenu ore made on thr fdlwmg skm properties: sonic measurements (41,impedance (51, capacitance ( 6 ) . transepidermal water loss (7). and surface roughness by all types of imaaina devices (8). Control il4anagement. The cosmetic scientist must be able to communicate effectively with those involved in setting standards, specifications, and compliance criteria for incoming raw materials a i d outgoing finished p&ducts. Safety. The responsibility of the cosmetic scientist to consider all aspects of raw and finished product safety assurance cannot be overstated. Safety criteria are set by tests for irritation and allergenicity (9),phototoxicity (lo), comedogenicity ( l l ) ,and mutagenicity
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Colleges OfferingCourse Work In Cosmetlc Sciencea Feirleigh-Dickinson University. Teaneck, NJ 07666 Arnold 8 Marie Schwa* College of Pharmacy 8 Health Sciences, Long Island University, 75 DeKalb Avenue, Brookiyn. NY 11201 College of Phamacy and Allied Health Professions, St, John's University. Jamaica. NY 11439 Massachusetts College of Pharmacy. Dept. of Industrial Pharmacy. Boston. MA02115 College of Pharmacy. University of Cincinnati. Cincinnati. OH 45267 RutgerS University. Piscataway. NJ 08854 School of Pharmacy. University of Maryland, Baltimore. MD 21201 Dept. of Chemistry, University of Missmi-Roiia. Roila. MO 65401 T h s amount may vary hom one or several courses all the way to a degree program wlth speCializEifionin cosmetic science.
Volume 64
Number 7
July 1987
619
Mechanism of Action. Current questions of interest include the mechanism of action of antioersoirants (13).skin moisturizers (14).
radiation on aging of the skin (16). Claim Substantiation, Claim substantiation is of growing interest within the profession. In order to promote a cosmetic product, what claims are to be made to the puhlic and how are these to he established scientifically? How are responsibilitiesto the Food and Drug Administration to be addressed? What kinds of claims are made by competing companies? Can these also he substantiated? Are one's own products being made to optimize safety, stability, and perfarmanee? The concerns and responsibilities of the cosmetic scientist are not onlv associated with the definition of the field itself. The requirements of marketing and manufacturing divisions lead to other interesting responsibilities, each calling for effective communication. The cosmetic scientist must work well with a number of technical groups in order to move new products into the proiect, marketplace. Depending.on the phase of a particular . these technical groups consider process, packaging, engineering, manufacturing, safety and toxicology, analytical, clinical, and regulatory affairs. The main nontechnical group that cosmeticscientists interact with is the marketinggroup. The cosmetic scientist often is considered the team or project leader and thus coordinates the work of the various erouns. Throueh the ioint effort of this team. ~ r o i e c t sare given executioial timelines. These timelines 'schedule the ~ r o d u c development t from the time it is formulated until the time it is lainched in the marketplace. Following is a brief summary of some of the cosmetic scientist's interactions with a few of the groups previously mentioned. Marketing. The marketing group often comes up with new product ideas and eanceots. The cosmetic scientist works to determine
products. Process. The process group is responsible for the scale-up of a laharatory-size batch of product to a pilot-plant hatch and then to plant-size hatches. During the scale-up, it is essential that the formulations developed by the chemist do not change in efficacy, stability, or aesthetics. This often requires reformulation for the product to be compatible with plant equipment. Engineering. The engineering group is responsible for designing new equipment, assessing purchases, making equipment changes, and redesigning plant layouts. For example, chemists work closely with engineering when purchasing new major equipment needed to process a new product. Manufacturing. The manufacturing group is responsible for production of currently marketed products. When phasing a new product into the marketplace, the chemist must work with manufacturing to make sure appropriate quality release criteria are set and that the final products being produced are of the required quality. The chemist also acts as a technical resource to the plant in a "troubleshooting" capacity. Other Groups. The cosmetic scientist works closely with the safety, toxicology, analytical, clinical, regulatory, and packaging groups while formulatine a new oroduct. The formulation chanee lies in
Where does one obtain formal training in cosmetic science? Although cosmetic companies hire various scientists for the many tasks a t hand, it is worthwhile to consider formal training in this area. The cosmetic science program a t
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Journal of Chemical Education
the University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy is one of the few formal programs in this field (see table) and is the only one with a formally organized cooperative experience. It is one of the programs of study within the Master of Science in Pharmaceutical Sciences. Plans are underwav for extension to a PhD degree. Established in 1975, the program is one of the few such courses of study in the United States. Following ninemonths of classwork. the program uniouelv . " features six to twelve months a t ;n offIcampus work site (which can he in an industrialor consultina laboratorvor theF.D.A.). There. the master's research thesis is complkted and industrial experience is obtained. The curriculum includes advanced courses in biostatistics, experimental design, pharmaceutical technology, dermatology, and a sequence in cosmetic science. ~ l e c i i v e sare chosen, depending on background and research objectives, from the areas of toxicology, microbiology, biostatistics, pharmacology, and pharmaceutics. The sequence in cosmetic science, which is unique to this program and includes laboratory as well as lecture work, covers material that was summarized in previous parts of this article in which the responsihilities of the cosmetic scientist were described. Featured in the seminars, besides student presentations, are guest speakers from industry and the F.D.A. The Medical Center, of which the College of Pharmacy is part, offers the following advantages. The Department of Dermatology teaches basic skin science, and the Department of Environmental Health teaches toxicology and biostatistics. The entire curriculum benefits from a n outstanding library and support services. Cooperative Off-Campus Work Sites A feature of the program is the required MS thesis research a t an off-campus cooperative work site. Compensation, adequate supervision, and projects of mutual interest to faculty, student, and work site are available. The cooperative experience bridges theory and practice and enhances employability. The sites include manufacturing or consulting companies in cosmetics or pharmaceuticals in various locations, and the Food and Drug Administration Laboratories in Washington, DC. Most work assignments require the student to move for six to 12 months. Program enrollment is limited by the restricted number of work sites. Admission requirements call for a B or better average and outstanding promise as evidenced by references and a transcript of grades. A flier describing the Curriculum and Course of Studies in Cosmetic Science may be obtained by inquiring to the Director, Graduate Studies, College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati, OH 45267. Literature Cited 2. l.owe, N. J. Cusmd. Toilefries 1 9 8 3 , k . k . 3. Highley. D. R. Casmet. Toiletries 1984.99.89. 4, Dnh1gren.R. M.: Elsnau, W, H.J . Soc. Cormat, Chrm. 1984.35.1. 5. Leveque,J. L.: DeRigal. J. J. Soc. Coam&.Chem. 1983.34.419, 5. Serhan. C. P.; Henry. S . M.: Cotty. V. F.;Cohen. G. L.: Riuely, J. A. J . Soc. Cownot. ?ha"
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7. Wu, M. S. J. Soc. Cosmat. Chem 1983.34.191. 8. Henman. L. L. J.Sor. Coamet. Chem. 1983.34.407. 9. Polikandritou,M.;Lichtin, J. L.;Conine, D.L. J.Soc. Coamef. Chsm. 1985.36, 159. LO. 1doon.B. Cosmai. Toiletries 1975,91.8. 11, Morris, W.E.:Ka.sn.S. C. J S o r . Cosmsl. Chem. 1983,34,215. 12. Anderson,D. J . Soc.Cormet. Chrm. 1978,29,207. 13. Quatrale. R. P.: Waldman. A. H.;Rogers, J. G.: Felger. C. B. J . Soe. Cosmaf. Chrm. 1981.32.67. 14. Meadows. T. P. Cosm& Toiletries 1980.95.5l. IS. shaath. N. ~ . c o r m e r .Toiletries 1 9 8 6 . 1 0 1 , s ~ . 16. K1igman.L. H.:Akin.F.J.; K1igman.A. M. J.lnu&.Dermot. 1985.84. 272.
