SYNTHETIC FIBER cold-weather clothing. A lightweight shell fabric is quilted over the face of the pile fabric. Initial laboratory tests show it to be equally as warm as any lining material yet produced and approximately 25% lighter than the conventional types now being used. Fiber orientation is extremely important in providing the necessary properties of a n efficient garment insulator. When the fibers are directed parallel t o compressor force, such as in a pile fabric, the fabric resists deformation t o a greater extent than similar weight insulation fillers prepared from carded webs. When the effects of compressive forces are minimized, significant improvements result because of greater thickness, since greater thickness means greater insulation, but the maintenance of thickness is even more important than is commonly realized because of the loss of heating energy that occurs aa the result of bellows-type action. It will be obvious that any material which readily re sponds to thickness changes under moderate loads will produce considerable heat transfer by evolving occluded warm air which is replaced in turn by cold air.
their ability t o withstand compressive for decreases in thickness under moderate load, minimize this tendency for bellows-type action. Conventionally, woven pile is characterized by its extremely high density and particularly by its high total weight per pile ratio. This unique knitted type permits considerable advantage in providing greater pile density per total weight. The versatility of the process permits the inclusion of varying length fibers and fibers t h a t would be difficult t o process by other techniques. For example, a feather fiberdyne1 blend pile fabric waa recently made on this company’s type of equipment. It has been attempted t o show how and where some of the newer synthetic fibers can be used in pile fabrics. Given a fuller denier range, their application will be further extended, Incorporating into the fibers better crimp, good resilience, and rapid recovery will make them more versatile.
Knit Goods F. F. HUBACH Princeton K n i t t i n g Mills, Inc., New York, N . Y .
HE subject of knit goods he hydrophobic fibers provide new horizons for both cirAnnual fabric production will be approached along cular- and flat-knitted fabrics, for a variety of end uses, inreached a high of around 110,historical lines starting cluding apparel fabrics and also household and industrial 000,000 square yards and, with the positions the manfabrids. Filament and spun yarns, especially in blends, because of conditions which made fibers assumed upon will be employed as individual yarns and i n combinations will be mentioned later, fell Grst being available to the to achieve fabrics with predetermined characteristics. to about 65,000,000 square knitters, their influence upon yards in 1951, with further the conventional knitting reductions in sight. At least equipment then in place, and 9Sy0 of current productions the consumer reaction t o the are used in the lower priced oroducts which ameared in small tieccs. the market. More space will be given to the circular and warp The second field of knitted yarn acceptance was in men’s knitting industries but the hosiery industry will be covered as well. half-hose, and t o a lesser degree in ladies’ seamless hose. Here The chicf raw materials available t o the knitting industries, again, equipment changes were made, permitting lighter weight prior to the man-made fibers, were cotton, wool, blends thereof, hose, and more important, fancy styles for men’s wear. When and silk. Although sizable quantities of cotton and wool are acetate appeared, it immediately contributed to the fancy styles still being consumed and will continue to be, this paper shall be because of its cross-dyeing characteristics. confined to a discussion of the man-made fibers, starting with Originally, the circular-knitted underwear productions were viscose process rayon, cupra-ammonium, and acetate and consupplied by the vertical operation, wherein fabric was knit and tinuing into the hydrophobic group, starting with nylon. garments were cut, and the cutter establishment, which purchased The knitting industries quickly accepted continuous filament finished fabrics from the independent knitter. I n the mid 1 9 3 0 ’ ~ ~ viscose process rayon when it appeared and became the major certain rayon producers installed knitting equipment and entered consumer of the product for a number of years. An early obserthe finished fabric market, selling to cutters. Within a few years vation led to the conclusion that refinements were necessary in the competitive factors in the sale fabrics became severe; this all types of knitting machines, especially the need of finer gage caused certain independent knitters to turn t o circular-knitted machines. The manufacturers of all types of knitting equipment outerwear fabrics during the late 1930’s. quickly responded and so aided materially in the progress made. Circular-knitted outerwear fabrics, chiefly of viscose rayon, The first volume production in knitted rayon was the circularachieved a fair volume, but their productions are limited beknitted underwear fabric used in women’s and misses’ small cause the fabrics lack certain features which the public demands. piece underwear and in a smaller way in slips and nightwear. The circular knitting industry is in position to use sizable quantiThe consumer quickly accepted these new, reasonably priced ties of cellulose yarns if these can be engineered to provide the garments, which were more appealing and lighter in weight than fabric characters needed to obtain consumer acceptance. the previous knitted garments available in volume. Productions The warp-knitting segment of the industry consumed relatively grew as more raw material became available, with the growth small poundages of viscose as it became available and did not being almost entirely in small pieces, with which the consumer become a n important man-made fiber consumer until acetate acceptance was unquestioned. Acceptance of knitted nightwear yarn appeared. Because of the broad weaving-yarn demands, the was fair, with less success in slips, because of poor fabric stability. warp knitters were usually short of yarn; this condition has now
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been corrected. Because of the yarns which the acetate producers chose to supply, the warp-knitted apparel fabrics are practically confined to two styles, which account for better than 9574 of operations. It is apparent t h a t 55 denier with about 15 filaments fortunately permits an acceptable two-bar underwear fabric, as the annual productions steadily rose from about 10,000,000 square yards in 1940 to about 115,000,000 square yards in 1951. This superior underwear fabric has curtailed the use of the circular-knitted rayon fabric. The second acetate warp-knitted fabric did not fare as well as the 55 denier underwear fabric. The t m - b a r jersey for outerwear was compelled to contain 75 denier with about 20 filaments, 80 that it is no more than a heavyweight underwear fabric, rather than an outerwear fabric. This is clearly con6rmed by the annual productions, which were about 20,000,000 square yards in 1940, rose to a high of 70,000,000 square yards, and fell to about 20,000,000 square yards in 1951. This basic fabric has a definite place in women’s wardrobes and there is evidence it can become important in men’s wear. This fabric, however, wit,h acetate yarns as currently available will not again become important. This is an excellent example of the need of an engineered yarn which will permit a fabric so acceptable that i t can reach a volume in excess of 1OO,OOO,OOO square yeards annually. In common with all branches of the textile industry, the circular and warp knitters need improved and new raw materials if pace is to be kept with consumer demands. However. if the cellulose base yarns are to remain of the same importance, study must be given to yarn requirements needed to produce wanted fabrics. Nylon, the first of the hydrophobic fibers, was introduced as a knitting yarn, and the first field of penetration was in ladies’ full-length hosiery. It was evident from the start that nylon would replace silk in this field, as nylon hosiery permitted longcr Fear life with increased sheerness-both sought by the wearers. The sheerest silk hose in 1940 were two-thread, about twice ~ t 9heavy as the now-popular 15 denier. The finest commercial gauge in 1940was 51, whereas 60 gauge is quite common now. The wear life of nylon hosiery originally caused some concern, but 1951 productions were at least 20% more than the maximum productions of silk hosiery which occurred in 1940, a year of overproduction. Upon reaching the point where the hosiery knitters had a fair supply, the producer of nylon was able to channel poundages of the knitting yarn to other branches of the textile industry, chiefly broadweaving and warp knitting. There promptly appeared acceptable nylon warp-knitted underwear fabrics, which now have a high consumer acceptance in small pieces, slips, and nightwear. The nylon warp-knit fabric has only a minor position in small pieces and nightwear and its deepest penetration has been in the slip field. It is important t o acknowledge the inroads which nylon warp-knitted slips have made. As the circular-knitted rayon and warp-knitted acetate occupied only a small position in the slip field, the loss to nylon warp-knit fabric was by nylo-) and rayon woven fabrics. The ability of the warp-knitted nylon slip t o hang straight and hug any changing contours of the body, together with the other attributes furnished by nylon, can only increase consumer acceptance, which means the battle is stili waging, with mounting casualties in sight. The author is convinced that hydrophobic fibers in continuous filament and spun yarns will do more for knitted fabrics than for broad woven fabrics. Spun yarns of viscose or acetate, or blends thereof, were unimportant in knitted fabrics, as the spuns were of cotton and wool. Wider acceptances can be visualized of knitted fabrics of filament yarn alone, and combined with spun yams, of 100% spun yarn and blended yarns, in apparel fabrics of all types, and in addition, participation in the house furnishings and industrial fabric markets. Curtains, draperies, furniture covering, slip and seat covers, floor covering, blankets, and bedspreads all offer fields for exploration by knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrice are already used in air filtration installations. 2150
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The demand for nylon warpknit underwear fabric has been so great, there have been but few opportunities to develop fabric for other apparel or industrial uses. I n the meantime, broadwoven nylon fabrics are available for a variety of end uses. The 1051 production of 100% nylon broadwoven fabrics was about I50,000,000 yards. Included are defense and industrial yardages and if it is assumed that these account for 50% of the total yardages, it n-ould follow that the woven nylon and warp-knitted nylon yardages are about equal. As the author sees it, nylon woven fabrics have not yet caused woven rayon and acetate fabric any appreciable trouble. A case in point is the woven nylon uniform fabric, which has replaced the cotton fabric. When the n arp-knitted nylon fabric has completed the domineering of thc slip field, the knitted fabrics will then be free to seek other fields. Orion filament yarn is an excellent candidate for outerwear fabrics, a3 well as for some industrial fabrics, but a full evaluation must be delayed until a wider range of deniers, filament counts, and lusters are available. Finer deniers, in the nylon ranges, should permit, desirable outerwear fabrics for blouses and dresses and, most likely, for underwear uses. The author’b commercial experience has been with the heavier deniers in brushed fleece fabrics. The success of this venture was achieved by utilizing the distinct properties of Orlon and here is the second example of what the hydrophobic fibers can do for the knitting industries. The contributions to be made to the knitting industries by filaments Dacron and X-51 ran be determined only n-hen yarns become available. These additional new raw materials will be evaluated by themselves and by yarn mixtures on the machines Spun yarns will widen markets for knitted fabrics in all field8 and give evidence of new markets which can now be penetrated A good premise to adopt is that there is no all-purpose fiber and that a marriage of fibers will achieve superior fabrics. While viscose and acetate staples have been available, with cupraammonium nom appearing, it is known that, with the exception of nylon, the hydrophobic staple fiber has not generally been available. Pilot plant fabrics point the way to commercial fabrics when raw material becomes available. A large variety of man-made fiber blends, some with the natural fibers, givr definite evidence of a large variety of fabrics which will be accepted by the ultimate consumer. This author looks for some outstanding developments before the end of this year, utilizing the newer dynel, Orlon, Acrilan, Dacron, and X-51, with the latter two more in the future. The mission of the synthetic-fabric industry is to avoid complicating the lives of American women, and hence it is their obligation to create fabrics which will permit “ea.9y living” garrnents for women, misses, childrrn, infants, boys, and men. This thought can be carried into household furnishings, such as curtains, draperies, furniture covering, floor covering, blankets, and so forth. To this end, there follows a series of “musts” with which the reader is doubtless familiar: 1. Stability of garment or article regardless of cleansing methods. It is essential that all garment dimensions be unchanged after repeated cleansings, whether these be commercial laundering, home laundering machines, hand laundering, or dry cleaning. 2. Minimum ironing or pressing. If a garment or other article, after cleansing, can be hung to dry and be ready for us? without ironing or pressing, the contribution is a real achievement. Usually overnight drying is acceptable. 3. Lighter weight garments without sacrifice of functions to be performed. The advent of nylon in various fabric applications, as well as the armed services layer principle, has focused attention on lighter weight fabrics for all uses. Generally speaking, there is no objection t o bulk as such, providing the weight is low. So especially for the colder weather fabric, a slogan “Warmth without Weight” might serve as well.
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S Y N T H E T I C FIBER 4. No change in character of fabric, even after repeated wearing or cleansing. Among considerations are surface character, handle, luster, etc. Many comments are heard about “pilling,” and this must be considered seriously. 5. Resistance to soiling. Any contribution which will lengthen service life between cleansings will promote ease of living. If spot cleaning will care for minor soilage, without later evidence of the operation, a real contribution has again been made. 6. Resistance to various abrasions. This is important, as longer wear life with acceptable appearance will be demanded by the consumer. 7. Resistance t o wrinkling and rapid recovery if there is wrinkling. This again incremes service life between maintenance operations. 8. Permanent pleats and creases. Styles will call for heat-
set applications, whice need to be permane methods. 9. Insectproof. This is to eliminate all storage problemq. 10. Mildewproof. Storage problems and fabric damages will thus be eliminated. 11. Resistance to chemical actions, stains, etc. Recent publicity was had in mid-town Manhattan when numerous nylon hose were casualties. 12. Flame resistant. The recent agitation caused by a long-haired, untreated brushed-rayon fabric is a familiar story to all. Proper legislation should be passed. 13. Antistatic problem. This is a serious problem common to all hydrophobic fibers. A permanent built-in antistatic is the true solution. This lacking, the cleansers of garments made of hydrophobic fabrica must be taught to apply a n antistatic treatment. RE~CEIVED for review April 24, 1952.1
ACCEPTED July 8, 1952.
Woven Apparel Fabrics ARTHUR M. SPIRO Robbins Mills, Inc., I407 Broadway, New York 18, N . Y .
N DISCUSSING the uses of the newer chemical fibers in
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woven apparel fabrics, t h e raw material will be referred to as man-made fiber, since these new fibers, as well as the relatively older man-made fibers, are not artificial substitutes for any particular thing, Thus the description synthetic does not really apply here. Another point to be understood is that the consumer wears fabrics in his woven apparel suitings-he does not wear fibers. Today, however, everyone is fiber conscious, so the transition from fiber t o fabric for men’s and women’s suiting-type constructions will be developed. FACIDRS AFFECTING CHOICE OF SUITING FABRIC
There are, in general, four basic considerations a purchaser looks for in fabric when purchasing a suit. The relative degree of importance placed on each of these factors varies among individuals, but to one extent or another the ultimate choice of fabric is based on price, appearance, touch, and performance. If there were only some guarantee to each of these four conditions, it is unlikely t h a t anyone would be concerned with the fiber content of the fabric a t all. There is no question but that the average consumer will be confused during the next few years when the new fibers are introduced. There are today six new chemical fibers under discussion, which, together with viscose and acetate rayons, wool, cotton, mohair, silk, and other fibers, form the basic component raw materials of the woven apparel fabric industry. There are two roads t o follow in the development of new fabrics with these man-made fibers. The manufacturers could flood the consumer public with a barrage of promotional material every six months, or perhaps supply charts, diagrams, and slide rules with each suit, so that the public can follow in detail this great potential race of the fibers. Of course, this is not the answer which we are looking for. Textile manufacturers must now apply the same type of engineering thinking to fabric construction as the chemists have done in their laboratories in order t o ensure the future and long life of the new man-made fibers. This is much easier said than done, September 1952
since the project must be carried on further t o the cutter, retailer, tailor, and dry cleaner as well. With this type of approach, however, the industry can accept this challenge, which would lead only t o increased consumer satisfaction in woven apparel fabrics. Barring limited end uses, and with few important exceptions, there is no universal fiber in existence today for application in men’s and women’s woven apparel suiting fabrics. I n other words, for general use in suitings, there is no basic fabric made from 100% of any fiber which could not be improved from the standpoint of price, touch, appearance, or performance through the addition or substitution in part of some percentage of another fiber. BLENDS FOR OPTIMUM RESULTS
Since there is no universal fiber for suiting purposes, then blends of two or more fibers in a given fabric will provide the basic general concept of our engineered fabric development. Wherever scientific engineering research has been applied in other fields, blends provide optimum results. Fuels, lubricants, metals, paints, adhesives, insulating materials, concrete, glasa, and rubber are but a few illustrations. I n much the same manner as the addition of manganese to carbon steels increases abrasion and makes an ideal product for grinders and crushers, small percentages of nylon add greatly to the strength and abrasion resistance of woven apparel fabrics. Raw materials t o provide proper blending tools t o engineer these fabrics have until now been slow in development. Research in general has been applied to air travel, electronics, atomic energy, and other fields of development. Now, with machine-gun rapidity, the textile industry finds itself faced with such magical products as nylon, Acrilan, Orlon, Dacron, dyne], Vicara, and others. Going back t o the four basic characteristic8 which consumers look for in buying woven apparel suiting fabrics-appearance, touch, cost, and performance-the new chemical fibers will be discussed with respect t o these factors.
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